Method of making shoes.



FJ. BLUM.

METHOD 0F MAKING SHOES. APPucATloN F1LED1UNE22, 191s.

APatented 001.1?,19111 2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

MET..

F11. BLUM. Y METHOD 0F MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED .IUNE22. I9I6.

Patented/00h 17,1916.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Swoon/t carica.

.. FRANK-J'. BLUM, OF IDNSVILLE, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO BLUM SHOE MANUFAC- TURIN@ CO., OF DANSVILLE, NEW YORK.

METHOD 0F MAKING SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Oct. 17, 1916.

Application led .Tune 22, 1916. Serial No. 105,253.

To all 'whom t may concern;

Be it known that I, FRAN'K J. BLUM, a citizen of the United States, residing at Dansville, in the county of Livingston and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Making Shoes; and I do declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

My invention relates to improvements in methods of constructing shoes and more particularly to those lined in such a manner as to be cold resisting.

This application is in part a continuation of application Serial No. 27880, filed May 13, 1915.

The main object of the invention is to cheapen the cost of manufacture of shoes of the class set forth, this being attained through a number of machine operations hereinafter fully described and claimed, the

descriptive matter being supplemented by the accompanying drawings which constitute a -part of this application and in which:

Figure 1 is a perspective view showing the first step of the improved method; Fi 2 -is a plan view of the upper after the fiirst stitching operation; Fig. 3 is a similar view with the supplemental heel lining secured in place; Fig. y4 is a perspective' view of the upper after stitching the vamp and toe por-- tions thereof; Fig. 5 is a similar view after stitching the lower edges of the upper together to form the shoe bottom and continuing said stitches to unite the lower edges of the aforesaid supplemental lining; Fig. 6 is a vertical transverse section through the shoe after inserting the heel counter into the space between the upper and the supplemental lining; Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the shoe in condition to receive the outer sole; Fig. 8 is a longitudinal section of the complete shoe; Fig. 9 is a horizontal section taken on the plane of the line 9-9 of Fig. 8; Fig. 10 is a plan view of a covering. of leather or fabric which may be employed to hide the quilting stitches from View; Fig. 11 is a perspective View of the covering in condition for application to the shoe; and Fig. 12 is a perspective view of a partly completed shoe with said covering applied.

In carrying outthe improved method, a lining sheet 1 of shea-red and carded wool in (see Fig. l). From the two-ply sheet thus formed the two sides 4 of the upper are cut, the rear edges of said sides being then stitched together as shown at 5 in Fig. 2. This having been done, an elongated supplemental heel lining 6 is stitched to the heel portions of the two sides 4 along its upper edge, the lower edges of said lining being left free (see Fig. 3).

After securing the lining 6 in place, the eyelets 7 and the usual binding 8 are applied, said binding extending` along the upper ends of the front edges of the two sides 4 and along the upper edges of said sides as clearly shown 1n Fig. 4. The lower halves of said front edges of the sides 4 are now stitched together as shown at 9 in the last named figure. The lower edges of the two sides 4 of the upper are now turned inwardly and stitched together at 10 from their front ends to a point spaced in advance of their rear ends, thus forming the bottom 11 of the shoe with a gap 12 at theheel thereof. Through the gap 12 the line of stitching 10 is con- Y tinued as indicated at 10a to join the lower scribed, is placed on a last. The material 'at` the bottom of the shoe is now lasted to impart the proper shape to the article, during which operation the gap 13 permitsexcess material at the toe of the shoe to be turned inwardly, the gap 12 acting in the same manner and both gaps being substantially closed` as shown in Fig. 7. A shank piece or arch support 15 is now cemented to the bottom 11 after which the outer sole 16 and heel 17 are stitched or otherwise secured in place to produce the completed article shown in Figs. 8 and 9. I'

By the method above described, the improved shoes may be constructed easily and inexpensively since practically all work is performed by machine operations, and the article will be found to be a highly desirable cold resisting shoe, it being obvious from the foregoing that a warm lining and inner sole are simultaneously provided. Particular emphasis is laid upon the use of sheared and carded wool in its natural state quilted to a suitable backing sheet, since this material' has proven to be highly effective as a cold resistingmedium. The other features, however, are also considered rather salient in that they all coperate to produce a highly desirable yet inexpensive shoe.

In the foregoing, I have described the preferred sequence of the numerous steps in carrying out the improved method but it is to be understood that within the scope of the invention I do not wish to be unduly restricted tothe exact order set forth. For instance, the eyelets 7' and binding 8 may be applied at any time other than that set forth kand although the lining 6 is preferably secured in place while the two sides 4 of the upper are laid out fiat as shown in Fig. 3, said lining may be applied at any time previous to the stitching 10, it being essential, however, that ity be secured in place before performing this stitching operation, in order that it may be continued to unite the lower edges of the lining.

In Figs. 10, 11 and 12 a covering 20 of leather or fabric is shown, this covering being adapted to be secured over the exteriorv of the sheets 1 and 2 in order that the quilting stitches 3 may be hidden from view, the covering 20 also serving as an additional cold resisting medium. The covering 20 is formed in two halves stitched together attheir rear edges as shown at 21 and united at 22 along the lower ends of their front edges (see. Fig. l1). In this state, the covering 2O is placed over an upper constructed in the manner above described, after stitching the front edges of the upper together at 9, but before applying the eyelets 7 and binding 8. Said eyelets when secured in place will pass through the covering 20` and the sheets 1 and 2 while the -binding 8 will cover the edges of all of these parts. After being completed to the extent shown in Fig.

12, the lower edges of the covering 2O and .the sheets 1 and 2 may be turned inwardly and stitched together to complete the shoe in accordance with the method above described in connection with Figs. 1 to 9 of the drawings. If desired, however, the lower edges of the parts in question may be only turned inwardly to a slight extent and secured to an outer sole in any one of the numerous ways now' employed.- A shoe having the covering 20 will be equally or probably more effective than that previously described and will be much more sightly, it being therefore well fitted for street wear if the covering be of`leather.

. From the foregoing, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, the advantages of the method and the numerous steps thereof will be readily understood, but

as above stated, I do not wish to be unduly limited to the specific order of steps set forth. Furthermore, it is obvious that shoes of other kinds than those depicted might well be constructed within the scope 'of the invention.

I claim 1. The method of constructing a cold resisting shoe comprising the steps of quilting a lining sheet of soft material to a pliable backing sheet, forming the shoe upper from the two-ply sheet vthus formed, and turning the lower edges of said upper inwardly and stitching them together to form front ends to points in advance of their rear ends, thus leaving a slit between the latter, inserting a Aheel counter into the shoe Y through said slit, and applying an outer sole.

3. The method of constructing a cold resisting shoe comprising the steps of quilting a lining sheet of soft material to a pliable backing sheet, constructing the shoe upper from the two-ply sheet thus formed, turning the lower edges of the upper inwardly and stitching them together from their front ends to points in advance of their rear ends thus leaving a slit between` the latter, securing a supplemental lining in contact with the heel portion of the other lining at any time previous to the last named operation, leaving the lower edges of said supplemental lining free, stitching said edges of the supplemental lining together through the aforesaid slit, inserting a heel counter through said slit into the space between the two linings, and securing, an outer sole in place.

4:. The method -of constructing a cold resisting shoe comprising the steps of quilting a lining sheet of soft materlalto a pliable backing sheet, constructing the shoe upper from the two-ply sheet thus formed,

4turning the lower edges of the upper inwardly and stitching them' together from their front ends to points in advance of their rear ends, thus leaving a slit between the latter, securing a supplemental lining in contact with the heel portion of the aforesaid lining at any time previous to the last4 named operation, leaving the lower edges of said supplemental lining free, continuing the last named stitching to unite said lower edges of the supplemental lining, inserting a heel counter through the aforesaid slit into the space between the two linings, and securing an outer sole in place.

sisting shoe comprising the steps of quilting a lining sheet of soft material to a pliable backing sheet and cutting the upper from the two-ply sheet thus formed, securing a supplemental lining`to the heel portion of the other lining .while the upper is laid out flat, leaving the lower edges of said supplemental lining free, stitchlng said two sides of the upper together along their vamp and toe portions, turning the lower edges of said sides inwardly and stitching them together from their front ends to points in advance of their rear ends, thus leaving a gap between the latter, continuing the last named stitching to unite the lower edges of the supplemental lining, inserting a heel counter through the aforesaid slit into the space between the two linings, and securing an outer sole in place.

6. 'The method of constructing a shoe com'- prising the steps of forming the shoe upper, turning the lower edges of said upper inwardly and stitching them together from their front ends to points in advance of their rear ends, thus leaving a slit between the latter, inserting a heel counter into the shoe through said slit and applying an outer sole.

' 7. The method of constructing a shoe comprising the steps of constructing the shoe upper, turning the loweredges of said upper inwardly and stitching them together from their front ends to points in advance of'their rear ends, thus leaving a slit between the latter, securing-a lining to the heel portion of the upper at any time previous to the last named operation, leaving the lower edges of said lining free, stitching said edges of the lining together through the aforesaid slit, inserting a` heel counter through said slit into the space between the upper and lining, and securin an outer sole in place.

8. he method o constructing a shoe comprising the steps of constructing the shoe upper, turning the lower edges of said upper inwardly and stitching them together from 4their front ends to points in advance of their rear ends, thus leaving `a slit between the latter, securing a lining to the heel portion of the` upper at any time previous to the last named operation, leaving the lower edges of said lining free, continuing the last named stitching to unite said edges of the lining, inserting a heel counter through the aforesaid slit into the` space -between the upper and lining, and applying an outer sole.

9. The method of constructing a shoe comprising the ste s of cutting the shoe upper from a sheet o pliable material, securing a lining to the heel portion of said upper before stitching the front edges of the two sides of said upper together, leaving the lower edges of said lining free, stitching the two sides of the upper together along their front edges, turning the lower edges of said sides inwardly and stitching them together from their front ends to points in advance of their rear ends, thus leaving a gap between the latter,y continuing the last named stitching to unite the lower edges of the lining, inserting a heel counter through the aforesaid slit into the space between the upper and lining, and applying an outer sole.

In testimonyv whereof I have hereunto set my hand in the presence of two subscribing M. L. MURPHY, S. N. ALBERT. 

